Why collect antique and vintage costume jewellery?
It is a very personal decision. People collect for the look of a piece of jewellery; because it is from a certain era or because it has been designed by a specific designer.
Here we have written a short description for each era on the style of jewellery with a bit of history.
Victorian Era (1837 – 1901)
With Queen Victoria reign came the industrial revolution and new cheaper designs in jewellery.
Paste – glass mixed with white lead oxide and potash. Long lasting and a substitute for diamonds
Fake pearl beads were created by coating balls of glass with a mixture of fish scales and varnish
Cut steel was used first in Birmingham to create marcasite jewellery (poor man’s diamonds)
Romantic jewellery came in when Queen Victoria married Prince Albert. Mizpah or sentimental brooches with their symbolic messages became fashionable
Many different materials were used to make jewellery including hair, tortoiseshell and jet
Scottish jewellery especially made of silver, granite and agate, became popular because Queen Victoria brought the Balmoral Estate
On Prince Albert’s death mourning jewellery of a black colour, usually of jet became a staple part of every woman’s jewellery box
The Arts and Craft movement in the 1870s until the 1900s saw a rebellion against the inferior machine made products and artisans produced beautiful well made jewellery often from glass, enamel and horn
Art Nouveau Era (1895 – 1905)
For a brief few years, the Art Nouveau movement bridged the gap between the nineteenth and twentieth century. As the 1900s dawned the Arts and Craft movement gave way to designers and craftsmen seeking new inspiration and looked back to earlier times and outwards to more exotic cultures
Inspired by medieval cultures, semi precious stones adored metal jewellery and with the designs of flowers and botany inspired by nature. Peacocks, butterflies and dragonflies and of course the “femme fatale” images were liberally used in the designs of this period. Liberty & Co, Lalique, Charles Robert Ashbee, Fred Partridge and his wife May Hart were just some of the designers famous in this era
George V (1910 – 1936) & Art Deco
Many of the jewellers producing gilt costume jewellery turned their craft to help the war effort of the First World War. During the post war booming economy, women changed from wearing the restraining bustles, corsets and long dress to becoming sleek stylish short haired, shorter skirted and obtaining a more liberated lifestyle. Long earrings feminized the short hairstyles. Long beads and multiple bangles accessorized the flapper dresses. From the flowing and nature style of the Art Nouveau period, the jewellery became abstract and linear. Bakelite became popular mixed with metal and celluloid was used to form brooches, bracelets and necklaces never seen in such colour before
The discovery of King Tutankhamen’s tomb in 1922 sparked an Egyptian revival using designs of scarab beetles with blue and green enamelling.
As the 1930s dawned the Hollywood influence of glamorous film stars and the import of Czech filigree jewellery with their bright colourful crystals became popular
World War Two (1937 – 1949) & Retro Era
Rationing and the war effort made costume jewellery more popular than ever. It boosted women and men’s morale. Patriotic jewellery and jewellery made of materials that was low cost was used. Bakelite, celluloid, wood, shell
military badges, buttons, coins
It was during the thirties that jewellery designers started to use enamel. The many pot metal brooches of animals, birds, flowers, circus figures and insects appeared. With pot metal being used for the war effort, silver with a gold plate or wash took over in the fourties.
Jewellery (both costume and fine) during this period was big and bold.
Fifties Jewellery
As the world recovered from the war; fashion, music and the cinema became more prominent. Hollywood, Rock & Roll, cars, proms and television influenced the jewellery. Fashion was very smart and tailored. For the more mature costume jewellery was elegant and sophisticated. For the younger generation a more casual and fun attitude developed
Simple prom style jewellery with rhinestones, pearl necklaces, earrings and bracelets (faux and real), twin sets and pearls is a mantra still used today;! and in 1955 the appearance of aurora borealis stones set into necklaces, brooches, bracelets, earrings, etc became very popular.
The Swinging Sixties
The Sixties, remembered for its pop music, art and hippie fashion. Plastic earrings and long love bead necklaces appeared. Bangles, anklets and belts were embellished with little bells, beads and bright fabric. Oriental and Ethnic influence pushed aside the sparkling rhinestone costume jewellery for beads of seeds, plastic and glass. Very large pendants on chains were popular. The Mod plastic and the black & white Pop Art look mingled with the flower theme of the free love decade
The Disco Seventies
Jewellery became less ornate as clothes were created with metallic thread for that disco sparkle. Plain chains and more use of a single colour became popular. Metal sculptured and large pendants, chokers and cuffs with jade jewellery both real and faux became popular. In the late seventies Punk, disco and Rockers influenced many individual looks.
Big Bold Eighties
The 1980s were influenced by pop stars and TV programmes. Dynasty TV programme influenced the big bold flashy jewellery of this era along with the shoulder pad fashion in clothes.
Jewellery was colourful, many mediums were used including wood, feathers, shells, mother of pearl, etc.
